Golden Week

October 1st was National Day here in China. The day marks the anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China. Although it is meant as a celebration of the communist takeover of the country it really celebrates the birth of 'Modern China'. The holiday really celebrates the end of imperial dynastic rule in China. They celebrate Sun Yat Sen along with Mao (Mao gets most of the love though). Most people get 1 week off of work to travel and celebrate the holiday. They call this Golden Week.

I celebrated National Day as 1.5 million Chinese are expected to do; I went to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. I have been to the square before but this was a different experience all together. It was absolutely packed with people. There were giant flower arrangements, and pictures of Sun Yat Sen and Mao erected in the square. When I arrived it was already noon so I decided to get some chow. Most places around the square are extremely expensive as they prey on tourists who know no better than to pay such prices. I decided to head to the south end of the square where the McDonalds is located. I haven’t had McDonalds since I've been here and it sounded pretty damn good at the time, but when I got to the front door I smelled an exquisite scent coming from around the corner. There was a street vendor selling stir fried noodles. I just couldn't bring myself to go into Mickey-D's. The locals were shocked when I took my hand off the door handle. I could sense their approval.

After a hardy lunch I made my way back across the square and took some pictures. As I was clicking away I felt a tap on my shoulder. It was a girl asking to take a picture with me. I was confused but obliged. She thanked me and scampered away. Upon seeing this many other Chinese got the same idea. I took four more pictures with people. I think they confused me with a movie star or something, it was crazy.

After that experience I headed to the front gate of the Forbidden City. This is where Mao made his famous speech proclaiming the foundation of the new republic. It is also where his massive portrait hangs. Once you pass through the gate you are still not in the actual city itself. Through the gate is a massive courtyard stacked with schlock shops selling everything from cameras and film to posters of Mao. After I waded through the crowd I got my ticket and audio guide and headed inside. The City is magnificent. Huge and sprawling, I almost forgot I was in the middle of one of the largest cities in the world. The ticket I bought also allowed me access to the museum in the city. The museum houses various traveling exhibits. The exhibition I saw was a collection of pieces from 18th, 19th and 20th century Russia. There were various goods and wares that were used by Russian Tsars over the centuries. It was a real unexpected treat to see all that gold and silver but I didn't go to the Forbidden City to see Russian artifacts so after perusing the exhibit I was on my way.

Most of the buildings in the complex are well maintained. There were parts where the original paint and wood could be seen next to the restored pieces. Renovation of several structures was taking place ahead of the tourist rush expected during the Olympics. This was not new to me. I experienced the same disappointment when I went to Greece the summer before the Olympic Games took place there. The difference between the two host cities is that fewer places are closed for renovation here than were closed in Greece. I think that this is because there is a real effort to constantly maintain cultural relics and historical places here in China. I can assume that this is a backlash against policies and actions of the 1960's and 70's.

All around the palace grounds there are mini museums detailing life and culture of the imperial courts that called the Forbidden City home. There was even an exhibit on the early bronzes created for Chinese rulers. Some of the pieces dated as far back as 1600 B.C. Bronze work was perfected and ubiquitous in China around this time. Bronze items were a part of daily life for not only the rulers but for many upper echelon commoners as well. There were combs, boxes, and various vessels of bronze. It was really cool.

I ended up walking around the Forbidden City for almost 4 hours and it was still not enough time to see everything. The City closes at five o'clock sharp and they are serious about it. Guards trolled through the alleys and alcoves and hurried everyone out of there right at five. Outside of the north gate I was bombarded with people trying to sell a little bit of everything. This is the case in most tourist traps throughout China. I refused each and every one of them until I came to a man who was showing me pictures that were familiar yet odd. He had pictures of the Great Wall, but they were unlike any I had ever seen before. They were of sections of the wall that are not reconstructed or renovated. He called it "The Natural Wall". He was offering tours to remote and isolated portions of the wall. He said, and I have read, that the part of the wall that is around Beijing is 630 km long but only 30 km are open for massive tour groups. He takes small groups on what amounts to a hike around the "Natural Wall". I took his business card and look forward to writing about that experience at a later date.

After talking to the tour guide for a while I made my way to Wangfujing. This is an area that has many western stores and lots of glitz to entertain the eye. Near this street is the Night Market. The night market has many stalls lined up down the street all selling many different meats and veggies and stuff on a stick. It is a must for any visitor. I had been before but had forgotten my camera so this time I was there for pictures. You can see a picture above. After taking in the sights and sounds of the market I went to the English language book store for a map and a dictionary. There I met a man who approached me with some questions. He saw that I was an English speaker and had a few questions regarding an English language brochure he was writing for his company. After patiently answering his questions for 10 min. or so he stopped and looked at me and smiled. He told me that he believes in Karma and that by providing him with help I will be rewarded. He told me that I am a very kind man who deserves blessings and he will pray for those blessings. I was totally embarrassed and touched by his sentiments. I just told him to say, "Our company has engaged in the textile business for 40 years." instead of, "The company has had textiles since 40 years." That hardly makes me a hero, but it is strange the amount of English text here that is horribly misspelled and completely incorrect. Maybe there is a job for me somewhere in that observation.

Speaking of observations:

It seems that the Chinese people look at their empires and dynasties as silliness. They see that part of their history as somewhat shameful or irrelevant to today's happenings.

It is cool to see a world map with China in the center. It displays a different world view both literally and figuratively.

Mooncakes are the traditional food associated with the Mid-Autumn Festival. They are little cakes filled with an assortment of fruit jellies or nuts. Some are very good. Some are very bad.

Damon Jones is huge here. For those of you that don't follow the NBA he is a role player who played for the Heat two years ago and now plays for Cleveland. He has a shoe deal with a Chinese company and has 5 story posters on buildings throughout Beijing. The other day I saw a massive poster of him next to a poster of David Beckham. Damon Jones is huge here.

Hope all is well. Take care. Stay tuned.